The Alta Via No. 1

A classic high level traverse of the Dolomites.

For many walkers the Dolomites are Europe’s most alluring mountain range. The tremendous limestone cliffs and rock towers, which soar more than 3000 feet above grassy alpine pastures give the range a unique character and the region is rich in history and culture. Many of the villages of the Dolomites appear more Austrian than Italian with their wooden chalets and colourful window boxes, and in some valleys the main language spoken is German.

The Alta Via No.1 is the classic high level traverse of the Venetian Dolomites. Beginning at Lago di Braies in Val Pusteria it travels from north to south along a superb trail which connects a network of high mountain refuges. These provide excellent accommodation along the entire length of the route, allowing walkers to walk from hut to hut whilst enjoying splendid overnight vistas and hearty Italian cuisine. On the trail we pass many of the most celebrated peaks in the range including the Fanes and Civetta groups and the spectacular Tofana di Rozes. We walk from hut to hut, avoiding valley accommodation and staying high wherever possible, making the most of the splendid scenery. Although a popular tourist region, the Dolomites can feel quite remote, and this walk will appeal to anyone seeking solitude in a comfortable European setting.

Itinerary

Day 1

We meet at Venice Airport where local guides and ground transport will be waiting. We then travel to the resort town of Dobbiaco, situated a short distance to the north of Cortina and nestling amongst some of the most spectacular scenery in the Dolomites. We stay at a central hotel.

Day 2

After breakfast we travel by minibus to Lago di Braies where the walk begins. The path follows the lake shore on its western side through beautiful pine forest until we emerge at the far end of the lake at 1500m. It then begins a steady climb following the course of the river Giavo through woodland which becomes increasingly sparse as we climb higher. There is a steeper section of switchbacks before a small lake is reached at about 1900m. We can look back from here towards Lago di Braies, beautifully framed between steep valley walls. The path then continues to climb up towards the foot of a prominent ridge before turning west along the Forno valley. Our high point of the day is the Forcella Sora Forno (‘Forcella’ means pass in Italian) at 2388m. Emerging finally at the crest of this, the first of many passes on our route, we can gaze southwards across a tremendous swathe of the Dolomites stretching across towards the resort town of Cortina D’Ampezzo. We can linger at the col, admiring the view, and congratulate ourselves on successfully tucking under our belt what is a relatively tough first day. There is a very short descent on the south side of the pass to the Italian Alpine Club’s Refuge Biella (2327m) where we stay for the night.

Day 3

The Alta Via 1 continues across open rocky ground which bears the scars of glaciation. In the distance we can see the mighty Pelmo (3168m), a peak we will be getting to know much better in the days ahead. We descend slightly to the Refuge Sennes at 2116m and then trek across the delightful meadows of Fodara Vedla (1966m). There is a newly built private refuge here and a possible site for lunch stops. We then descend steeply down to the Hosteria Pederu (1543m) in the Valun de Fanes. Continuing south the trail picks up the course of the River Al Plan to reach the Refuge Fanes.

Day 4

We climb up the gentle hillside to the south-east of the refuge to the small col of Passo di Limo (2172m) which lies at the head of the Val de Fanes. We pass the clear waters of Lago di Limo and descend easily down into the head of the wooded valley. We can pause for a rest at the small refuge Malga Fanes Grande (2102m) where drinks and snacks may sometimes be available, before heading south and following a broad path which ascends very gradually to the low saddle of Passo Tadega (2153m). From here we can see in the distance our route up to the prominent notch of Forcella del Lago (2486m). The path climbs in a long rising traverse to this col and on the far side it drops down steep scree to the Lago di Lagazuoi (2182m). We cross the small green pastures surrounding the lake and traverse the featureless expanse of Monte de Lagazuoi before a final steep climb delivers us to the large Refuge Lagazuoi (2752m). The views from here are absolutely outstanding. We have a far reaching panorama southwards across endless mountains whilst directly to the east the massive Tofana de Rozes (3225m) towers above us, its sheer pink granite walls rising for 1000 metres above the valley floor. Lagazuoi is a large refuge and during the day there is cable car access for day trippers who come up from Cortina to admire the views. But in the evening when the last of these tourists has departed we have the place to ourselves and can anticipate a marvellous sunset with the lights of Cortina twinkling in the distant valley beneath us.

Day 5

We depart from the refuge early in the morning and descend to the Forcella Lagazuoi. This region was heavily fortified during the First World War and the area is littered with trenches, rusting barbed wire, shell cases and other military artefacts. The Alta Via contours beneath the towering walls of the Tofana di Rozes and we have to crane our necks to take it all in. Climbers can sometimes be seen on the face but such is the scale of the place you need good eyesight to pick them out. We continue traversing on an elevated path and then descend slightly to reach Refuge Dibona. The trail now drops down to the main road which comes up from Cortina. We cross this and climb on the south side towards the Cinque Torri, five fantastic towers of rock which are the playground of climbers. Beyond these we gain the crest of the delightful Nuvolau ridge which offers some of the finest views on the entire trek including a sweeping view across to the Croda da Lago (2701m) and Monte Pelmo. The fine views will encourage us to linger on this section, but eventually it is time to leave and we descend down towards the comfortable Refuge Passo Giau (2236m) with its excellent restaurant. This refuge is located on the road and we will be re-united with our baggage here, allowing for a change of clothes at this half way point in the trek.

Day 6

Fully showered, refreshed and wearing a clean change of clothes we set out again, climbing easily to the Forcella Giau (2360m). The path maintains its height as we traverse across the Alpi Mondeval towards the Forcella Ambrizzola. This area is extremely scenic with the huge north face of Monte Pelmo beckoning us towards it. This is one of the major peaks of the Dolomites and its first recorded ascent was made by the British alpinist John Ball in 1857. We cross the Col Roan (2014m) and traverse across to the Refuge Citta di Fiume (1918m), located in a tremendous position beneath Monte Pelmo’s huge north face.

Day 7

A fairly tough day as we make a circumnavigation of the great Mount Pelmo (3168m). We climb up steeply to reach the Forcella Val d'Arcia (2476m) before descending on the southeast side of the mountain to the Refuge Venezia. The trail continues more easily, making a loop around the southern flanks of the mountain until we reach the refuge at Pala Favera (1550m).

Day 8

From Pala Favera we use a cable car on the next section up to the Col di Dof. This gains us 400 metres of altitude in five minutes and avoids a rather uninteresting hike up a dirt road. The path continues to ascend up to the Refuge Coldai (2132m). This is located in a tremendous position and with its fine views back across the valley to the Pelmo it makes a great place to stop for lunch. We then cross the small col of Forcella Coldai and drop down to a beautiful blue lake which is a popular excursion for day trippers. Above this we ascend to the notch of Col Negro di Coldai (2203m) from where there are fantastic views of the west face of the Civetta (3220m). We hike easily down through the pastures of Val Civetta amid a profusion of wild flowers, and finally reach the Refuge Tissi located in a spectacular situation opposite the rock walls of the Civetta.

Day 9

The path follows a wide track which contours around a wooded hillside, before beginning a long and zig zagging descent to the Val Corpasa. Before we reach the valley floor we branch off the main trail and traverse on a high level route through mixed woodland towards the Forcella Col Dell’Orso (1823m). We skirt around the crenellated ridge of the Campanile del Zoldani (2398m) and cross two minor passes to reach the Refuge Carestiato (1834m). There are fine views of the Moiazza (2601m) which rises directly above us, and across to the peaks of the San Sebastiano group. We can pause here and soak up the scenery before embarking on the final section of the route down to the road at Passo Duran (1601m). There is a guest house and small restaurant here and we will be able to enjoy a few beers with our lunch, celebrating our successful traverse of the Alta Via 1. Our private transport will meet us here and we drive back to our hotel in Cortina.

Day 10

After breakfast we depart from our hotel, travelling to Venice airport for flights home.

Factfile

• Grade: Strenuous
• Duration: 10 days